Developments

Moulaging- I attempted a full scale moulage using the techniques and shapes I had including in my research. It was successful but I feel there's a little too much going on, I should maybe only use one or two techniques and develop into a top or jacket rather than a dress. 

Keeping with asymmetric theme- need to think about suitable fabrics (can't be too heavy on one side)

Concaving and bulging shapes- uneven shape and surface

Third week with third year 

There's so much to think about at the moment, it was quite a nice break from my own work to come in and help today. Today I did some redrawing of her big patterns, sewing in labels and overlocking. It gives you an insight to how many small but significant details go into putting a collection together.

13th May

Today we were set another one day task- this time devising your own goals for the day. This was effective as I knew i had alot to do, and would focus me to a time to get it all done. The tasks had to be towards my final piece- from having a quick look around the room I could tell i was a little more behind than everyone else. It was time to get cracking. By 3:45pm today I set myself the goals of moulaging the shape of my final piece in calico, translating this into a paper pattern and combing it with flat pattern cutting for design details. Although I had a good design idea I still wasn't completely happy with it, I felt a bit frustrated and knew if I started moulaging what I'd already got I wouldn't be happy with it. I needed to backtrack a bit and do a bit of research to inspire me. This wasn't the best example of my time management skills, I needed to work fast if I wanted to get all this done in time. 

I did some research and came across my old favourite Comme des Garcons. The collections were great for inspiration in terms of shape and design details and fell nicely into what I was looking for. 

Comme des Garcons- Fall 2008

Making holes

volume at the sleeves

Lumps and bumps collection- Spring Summer 1997- love this!

love the use of sheer fabrics- delicate skin

Padded sections under sheer fabrics. Great way to create volume and uneven surface.

Fall 2004

Asymmetric shape and great surface detailing

Love the ruffles- great way of communicating uneven surfaces. Thinking about inserts of large amounts of fabric. 

Fabrics

Through research into my theme and what would be appropriate for the shapes and techniques I want to achieve I have decided on the fabrics I want to use;

-Chiffon- two shades (giving effect of delicate skin, surface can be easily distressed)

-Muslin (wrinkled pleated) (much like bandage- victims of disease and deformity)

-Modrock (uneven surfaces)

-Latex (just like skin)

-Leatherette( another example of skin- like fabric)

The mixture of the skin- like fabrics can achieve an uneven surface. 

Continuing to Moulage

Translating last weeks moulage into a paper pattern. I really enjoyed this, seeing it all come together and feel moulage will be a technique that will work really well for me. Need to remember to mark it out clearly everytime!

Critical Studies- essay feedback

70%

An excellent concise review of the issues using relevant and well selected images to support my research. Particular focus on the suit has given this narrow field by which you have effectively discussed. You deal with the critical concerns of androgyny and interpretation of gender through this and establish a balanced argument for the safe security of femininity and the reinvention of the suit.  You can clearly articulate and should build on this in reviewing with increasing criticism the material presented. You do lead your evidence to conclude fairly well but there are occasional leaps to subjectivity, which you need to be aware of. 

Materials

This project is a great opportunity to really experiment with unusual materials in communicating my theme well. Today I looked into working with modrock. I applied it to ruffled calico at the shoulder. I intend on producing an asymmetric final garment so as much volume at one shoulder as possible is needed. Modrock was a great way to create volume and shape with an effective uneven surface. Saying this applying a large amount of it meant it got really heavy, plus allowed for limit movement. 

Latex is a great way to create a skin- like look. Its easily moldable and can create ruffles for uneven surfaces. It also allows for a big range of movement. 
Here I have applied a thin layer of modrock to a chiffon base. The think layer works alot better as it still allows movement. Saying this the thin layer means it flakes easily, I need to find a way of sealing it and maintaining movement. 

New ideas and approaches

Moulaging

Making pattern from calico rather than the reverse with flat pattern cutting. Can be used in a combination as moulage can’t be used in making trousers and sleeves.

Liked moulage as it gave more freedom in shape than flat pattern cutting and as im not too comfortable with flat pattern cutting it gave me some encoragement when attempting to professionally contruct a garment.

Grain lines are important. Marking out benchmarks-  center front, centre back, darts and seams etc. leave facings etc for when using with flat pattern cutting.

Good for assymetrical shapes- which im planning to use for my design.

Need to not be scared to cut into the fabric- avoid it looking like a toga.

Good way to displace seams and mix up traditional construction. 

 It was such a nice alternative to flat pattern cutting and one that I feel will work best for me in future. The fact that you could see it forming in front of you allowed me to get the hang of it so much better. I want to eventually produce an asymmetric piece, which moulage is perfect for. It initially wasn't as easy as it looked and was important to mark up everything to avoid getting confused later. 

Boxpleats at neckline and waist. Have to be equal and marked out well. 

Darts marked out on the outside and marked out